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Derrumbes Tamaulipas comes from San Carlos, in the northeastern Mexican state of Tamaulipas. Maestro mezcalero Cuauhtémoc Jáquez makes it. Very little mezcal comes from this corner of Mexico, so it tastes quite unlike the usual Oaxacan bottles.
It is an ensemble of agaves. Two local amole types, Agave funkiana and Agave univittata, are cooked with the larger Agave americana. The hearts roast in an underground pit. They ferment naturally and are distilled twice in copper pot stills. The exact agave mix can shift from batch to batch.
Smell it first and you'll get bright citrus and green pepper. Herbal, vegetal notes follow, along with a gentle lactic tang. The palate is sweeter than the nose suggests. Sweet agave, lemon and apple sit beside fresh green herbs, with pepper keeping it lively. The finish runs long, with lime rind and earthy greens. Smoke stays very light. The importer also notes black forest fruit, black cherry and a mineral thread that builds as you sip.
Pour it neat at room temperature in a small glass. Sip slowly and let it open up. Orange slices are a classic side. At the table, grilled meats, citrus-marinated seafood and roasted vegetables all work well.
If you already know Oaxacan espadín, this bottle shows you a whole new side of mezcal. Curious agave fans will find plenty to talk about here.